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Lister CS Gib Key Puller

Lister CS Gib Key Puller
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2.20 kgs
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including VAT £5.83
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Manufactured for Stationary Engine Parts Ltd to our own original concept and design. They are suitable for spoked flywheels and the kidney shaped Start-o-Matic types on both genuine Lister CS engines and Indian manufactured Listeroid copies.

We have upgraded the MkII puller from 12mm steel plate to 18mm bar stock to enable you to put some serious removal pressure on that key via the three large bolts. We are not promising this is the answer to all your stuck key problems but it should certainly give you a real fighting chance.

Please note that if you do not have a minimum of 14mm between the head of your key and the hub face of your flywheel the puller will not be suitable for the first stages of removal but can be used once a 14mm clearance is present. Many customers with this issue have reported the easy fix of simply filing a little material from the back of the key's head to open up the clearance to the required 14mm.

Use of the puller is very simple, please proceed as follows:-

Before attempting the removal of a Gib key it is recommended that you give the key a thorough and long term soaking with a good quality penetrating oil, the longer you can let the oil work prior to attempting to pull the key the better. Ten minutes prior to removal is rarely long enough for a key that hasnt moved for fiftey years or more, from our own experiance and reliable customer feedback we know stubborn keys can sometimes take weeks to remove with great patience and daily oil application.

It is imperitive that the inner face of the key's head should be clean, flat and at least 90' to the crankshaft, if your keys are like most of the ones we have experianced with bruised and rounded heads this will not be the case and it may well be necessary to carefully file the head of the key to provide a clean flat face and good square angle for maximum even load distribution. The last thing you want is for the puller to be riding over the head of the key or for the key to start arching up.

Once you have oiled your key for as long as your patience will allow and you have properly prepared the keys head place the puller over the head of the key with the three 12mm bolt heads facing you as shown in the picture on the left.

You can then rotate the puller slightly to the right (clockwise) so that the keys head is no longer aligned with the cut out notch but is immediately under the specially recessed portion as per the picture below. This recessed portion is a feature we insist upon, many have copied our pullers and omitted this crucial design element rendering the puller almost useless in situations of minimal key head clearance. Something to watch for if your considering buying from elsewhere!

This is the correct position your puller should be alighned in when pulling any key. We now recommend you place a small piece of shim steel between the crankshaft outer diameter and the pullers centre hole to prevent damage to the shaft. Further more it is also a wise

move to place some flat stock or similar between the flywheels hub and the ends of the bolts to prevent any damage to your flywheel as the bolts take the strain, especially if you have a nice paint job like the engine in the picture. Screw in the bolts until light pressure is felt and the packer are held firm.

You are now ready to apply pressure to the key head by screwing in the three large bolts.

It is essential to keep the puller parallel to the flywheel at all times thereby applying an even pressure to the key. An angled puller will only apply uneven pressure to the key and increase the risk of shearing off the head, then you really do have problems.

Lastly and most importantly, be patient. I know this is the bit we all find very hard but it really does pay off in the long run. If your key does not show signs of moving with a good pressure applied staight away don't worry. Keep the pressure applied and add penetrating oil daily until the key gives out. We do not recommend you heat the hub of the flywheel as the stresses placed upon the spokes and / or outer rim as the hot centre starts to expand whilst the cool outer rim doesnt can cause the flywheel to fracture. For obvious reasons a compromised flywheel can have serious if not deadly results and this should be avoided at all costs. A good flywheel should ring or sing out when tapped, a dull or dead sound is a sure sign of problems and should be properly investigated before the engine is run.

Finally, GOOD LUCK!

Customer feedback.
"I just wanted you to know that - after all the trouble you went to in order to send me the Gib key puller to Israel that it worked very effectively on my Gib keys. Based on everything I'd read about Gib key removal, I was prepared for an extended struggle with WD-40 and all of the intuitiveness I could muster. Instead, I was able to pull each key out within 10 minutes. I just hope that when I rebuild my Listeroid that each key goes back in as efficiently. M Schreibman."
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